conquering a zip fly May 15 2012, 5 Comments
Good news! It's easier than you think, I promise!
I've inserted a lot of zippers in my time but for the last 6 years they have mostly been the closed seam, invisible centered or exposed zipper applications. Daniela's Banyan pant design called for just a slight overlapped zipper, which is the more modern look. I love photos & illustrations because I'm a "visual" type of gal and lucky for me when we were writing instructions for this pattern Daniela sent over photos (yay) to help make sure we were clearly guiding our sewists. Now that the patterns have been released I thought what better way to make sure everyone has enough visual aids then to share these great photos with you! So, here you go:
Once you have interfaced the fly flap, sewn the center seam beginning 1/2" below the fly flap and baste stitched from the bottom of the flap to the waist hem. Press the fly flap open and change the presser foot to the zipper foot on the machine.
If you have sewn most of the Figgy's patterns by now then you know that my most favorite notion is Wondertape. You really can't beat it (if you think you can then please leave us a comment we love new knowledge) especially when installing a zipper. I place the Wondertape along the right side of the zipper tape close to the edge (not the teeth). This double sided tape will hold the zipper in place while you sew and you don't have to worry with pins. With the zipper unzipped, align the right side of the zipper top edge with the waist hem and the zipper teeth with the basted seam line. Stitch the tape in place. Be sure that only the fly flap is resting on the sewing plate and not the pants and fly. Remember to backstitch!
Close the zipper. Turn the pants upside down, align the opposite zipper tape to the opposite fly flap. Again, make sure only the fly flap is resting on the sewing plate and not the pants. Stitch the zipper in place.
Change back to the regular machine presser foot and turn the pants so the right side is facing up. With most pants you can simply feel the curve of the fly flap from the right side with your finger. Using a chalk or fabric pen mark this curve from the waist to the center seam. Change the stitch length to 2.5 - 3.0 for a nice looking topstitch. If your machine has a nice topstitch try using a contrasting thread. After top stitching along the marking remove the baste stitches and unzip the zipper.
A fly extension will keep the zipper from rubbing your little one's skin and it gives a nice professional touch. With the right sides facing, fold the extension in half lengthwise and press flat. Stitch a crescent shape along the bottom raw edge. Trim the seam and turn right side out. Using a point turner smooth the seam and press flat once again. Finish the long raw edges by using a serger, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.
Align the finished edge of the extension with the fly flap edge behind the zipper. Edgestitch through all of the layers from the right side of the pants.
All done! Not so bad was it?
Here is a look at the finished zipper after the waistband is sewn in place. Nice!
Thank you Daniela for providing these photos and we all hope you're having an amazing time visiting family in Germany (lucky girl)!